Fabulous Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy

While Italy has numerous regions where La Dolce Vita (The Sweet Life) is readily available, I highly recommend the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in the northeast part of the country.
I recently spent a month there and I’ll definitely return next summer. Whether it’s the boutique hotel amid the vineyards near Civedale or roaming the streets of the port city of Trieste, my visit was, well, oh so sweet.
Enhancing the experience was the superb wines, exceptional local cuisine at cozy trattorias and great bike paths that weave through vineyards.
The highlight was my stay at Il Roncal, a boutique hotel and winery about three miles from downtown Civedale. Weeks later and I’m still dreaming of the wonderful bike rides through the vineyards, farm fresh breakfasts on a sunny patio and lounging at the swimming pool while sipping sparkling wine (Ribolla Gialla Spumante Brut). Owner Martina Moreale and her daughter, Angelica, were wonderful hosts.
Il Roncal is a small estate winery of about 50 acres of terraces on the Montebello Hill. They produce whites, reds, sparkling, sweet white wines and other products like olive oil and Grappa.
Martina makes it very easy for hotel guests to enjoy her wines, too. There’s a comfortable bar and wine lounge where you can enjoy a bottle of wine (or grab one to go). It’s based on the honor system, so you just place a mark on a sheet next to the wine you selected and you’re off to vino heaven. Later, your choices are tallied up at the end of your stay and added to your bill.
One of our bike rides was through the vineyards of the nearby Bastianich Winery and restaurant about a mile from Il Roncal. The name might sound familiar. The owners are Joe Bastianich and his mother Lidia Bastianich, the American celebrity chef, author and restaurant owner. I love watching her Italian cooking show, Lidia’s Kitchen, on PBS.
My wife and I dined at their restaurant, Orsone, which was a phenomenal dining experience. Featuring an engaging menu with items like spaghetti and meatballs, a wonderfully seasoned hamburger and lobster rolls, the restaurant has the feel of an elegant American gastropub. It’s surrounded by terraced hills and directly across a small path from the winery.  You can also sit outside in a garden.

It’s a very elegant and classy atmosphere and the chefs are trained at Joe’s Michelin-starred Del Posto restaurant in New York City.
The town of Civedale is one of the most charming and enjoyable I’ve ever visited in any part of Italy. Founded by none other than Julius Ceasar in 50 BC, Civedale has ancient buildings, cobblestone streets, a delightful city square, national archeological museum, quaint shops and an excellent selection of trattorias and restaurants.
Because Civedale is in close proximity to the Austrian border, you’ll find lots of great fusion cuisine. Some of my favorites include Jota, a bean soup topped with sauerkraut; Frico, a fritatta-like pancake of cheese and potatoes and Strucolo, the region’s take on Austrian strudel. Also, don’t forget to get a plate of San Danielle ham with a nice glass of local wine and fresh baked bread.
For wine lovers, the best part about this region is the lack of the tourist hordes. Unlike heavily visited Tuscany and Piedmonte, Friuli Venezia Giulia has a slow, comfortable, authentic feel.

One of my favorite cities in the world, Trieste, is in Friuli Venezia Giulia.  It’s like a mini San Francisco with its hills and antique trolly to the village of Opicina, which overlooks the city. There’s also Barcola beach, the castles of San Giusto and Miramare, Piazza Unita, a beautiful city square overlooking the ocean, and a walkable old town with excellent seafood restaurants. You’ll hardly see any American tourists here, as most never venture north from Venice.
If you want large doses of unhurried La Dolce Vita, head to Friuli Venezia Giulia.
You’ll be pleasantly surprised.